Silverfast epson9/26/2023 The question is relative, it all depends on what you want your resulting picture for and what future uses will this picture have? Will you archive this picture? LSI_Morales wrote:When you say: "is it best to save the edited file as a Jpeg file for photographic development" are you actually asking or stating? I would recommend to check the color management addendum as well as chapter 7 of the user manual to better understand this aspect.įor the other topics I recommend you to use the index of the user manual towards the end, this will point you exactly to the right pages for every topic. They are also dependent on operating system. Manufacturer: Other (Most film negative have no name or details)īut the problem is that those settings belong to negative scanning, if you switch SilverFast to positive or Kodachromes you will see that those settings will change. Plug & Play CMYK: No CMYK (Box greyed out – impossible to change) Profile to embed: Adobe RGB (1998) (Box greyed out – impossible to change) Output/printer (Box greyed out – impossible to change) Scanner (Transparency): Epsom Perfection V700/V750 (Box greyed out – impossible to change) Scanner (Reflective): Epsom Perfection V700/V750 (Box greyed out – impossible to change) Internal -> Monitor: Image Colour Matching (ICM) Input -> None (Box greyed out – impossible to change) MidPip Fixed Target: 50 (Active box Un-ticked) Gamma Graduation 2.00 (For HDR output box un-ticked)Īuto Threshold Highlight: 2 (Level Un-ticked)Īuto Threshold Shadow: 2 (Level Un-ticked)Ĭolour Cast Removal: 100 (Active box ticked) Original 3.5cm wide x 2.5cm High (Locked) PS I have spent a lot of time reading through the forum and watching the videos but i was still confused hence the post. Thank you for your time, I hope that this all makes sense, I have listed all the settings in my SilverFast installation below for the purposes outlined above, are there any changes that you would recommend where I might achieve better results, or even the same results in less time. Once I have created the raw file and imported it in to Photoshop, is it best to save the edited file as a Jpeg file for photographic development and what eventual jpeg file size should I be aiming for? If question 1 assumption is correct, what Q factor and dpi is recommended and what raw file size should I expect to create for Photoshop? If I require a photograph as described above, using a 35mm film negative image, do I simply enter the Original size (35mm x 25mm) and scale at 100% - giving me an output size the same as the original? I have been experimenting for the last week with mixed results, being an absolute beginner at all this, I am not entirely sure whether I am going about the process correctly and I was hoping that you might point me in the right direction and I would like to ask a few questions. I aim to have photographs developed (Not Printed) probably in sizes ranging between 15cm x 10cm and 20cm x 15cm. I am hoping to scan and edit these using a combination of Silverfast Ai and Photoshop elements (Version 6) software. I recently purchased an Epsom Perfection V750 Pro with a view to achieving my 35mm and 126 square film negatives, some of which are 33 years old.
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